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Why is Real Wood Flooring Graded?

Real wood flooring is an incredibly rewarding product to use in the home, and if well-maintained will improve with age and add value to your home. It can be a bit daunting choosing real wood flooring for the first time if you’ve never done it before since there are so many decisions to make! These include, the type of wood (e.g. oak, walnut etc.), the finish (e.g.. solid, laquer, stained, oiled etc.), the board size, and also the fitting profile (e.g. tongue and groove). Another aspect often overlooked or misunderstood for its mystery is the wood grade.

 

Acknowledging the grade of your real wood flooring is important, as it will help you understand the product you’re purchasing better, and also inform you of the quality of the product and how long it’s likely to last. Real wood flooring is graded because wood is a natural material, and therefore no two planks will be exactly the same. Wood, like other natural material will vary immensely in colour, density, and strength. Some types of wood may also have more or less imperfections and natural weakness in their composition, and therefore may be either more or less suitable for application as flooring. Largely speaking, the grading system is in place to distinguish between what are considered more, and less aesthetically pleasing natural appearances.

 

There are a number of different types of grading used to distinguish between real wood flooring, but let’s start with the Classic Grade. This title is used to define wood that is generally speaking, considered to be the highest grade, and most aesthetically pleasing. Woods in this category are characterised by the least variation in colour, grain and knots. In other words, a wood with a consistent colour tone, with the straightest grain and fewest knots. Such types of wood awarded the classic grade include Walnut, Ash and Elm.

 

One of the next most notable grades for distinguishing between types of real wood flooring is the Character Grade. This grade is awarded to wood that may feature more variation with regard to colour tones (such as Oak), and less standard grain and knot prevalence. Character grade real wood flooring often features wood with knots that react more dramatically to kiln drying, often cracking. This is quite common, and these knots are sanded and filled with a special resin and then sanded down again.

 

The last of the more common wood grades used in categorising real wood flooring is Rustic Grade wood. This grade is awarded to wood that features significantly more variation with regard to colour tones, and in particular in knot size and grain direction and spacing. Generally speaking this grade can include wood that features almost and unlimited amount of variation, whether natural or through defect. Again, many of the features of rustic wood are filled and sanded before it is sold to ensure it is structurally sound.

 

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Are Childrens Wood Beds The Best Choice?

Shopping for childrens wood beds shouldn’t be taken lightly, a personal touch should be considered when making your final decision. A bed is the most personal furniture in the house, but more special in your child’s bedroom. Childrens wood beds can last much longer than metal beds, and are very easy to maintain, wood furnishings leave a room with a comfortable and calming homey feeling. In addition, children wood beds are fashionable, and sturdy, and inviting to look at.

There is no shortage of variety in childrens wood beds to choose from, some people may ask, why buy a childrens wooden furniture? When comparing wood beds to metal beds, wooden beds are made from natural material, also wooden beds have a calming and warm feeling, unlike the cold feel that emanates from beds constructed of metal.

There are some people who are concerned about buying wooden beds for the reason they feel furniture made from wood production are destroying the natural environment. To answer this concern, the fact is that most beds for children and wooden furniture are constructed with pine wood. Pine is a common wood readily harvested from local sustained forests, and have no ill effect on the environment.

Childrens wood beds give any bedroom a sense of class, especially if the wood is varnished. It doesn’t matter if the childrens wood bed is a twin bed, a single bed or a wooden bunk bed, your children will love it. Bunk beds are hugely popular with kids, children love to play on and around bunk beds, and it becomes a joy to sleep in them. Additionally space can be saved with a childrens wood bunk beds as compared to having two single or twin beds in a room, and also give more room for your children to play.

Childrens are unique furniture, and are normally strong and nice to look at. As the years pass, beds for children are long lasting and may out live metal beds that can rust if not maintained. Not many things look as nice as a varnished piece of wooden furniture, and beds for children can give an alluring feel to a room.

Manufacturers of childrens beds have various designs, they offer accessories like built in drawers into bed frame or into the headboard. Many wood beds designs are creative, as an example is the wooden loft bed, space under the bed can be utilized as a storage space, making more space than a bunk bed.

myspace.com/coldwarkids The second single from robbers & cowards

The Marvels Of Engineered Wood Flooring

The engineered wood is very much in demand these days for the new houses that are being built. This is mainly used for the floor because hardwood flooring is not easy to be done on your own. You have to get a floor installer. Comparatively, the engineered wood flooring is an alternative that not only enhances the look of your house but is also hassle free.

Engineered wood is a mixture of plywood and finish wood and so you have actually got yourself real wood for the floor, no matter what people may say. The engineered hardwood floors are moisture proof and are also easy to maintain. Even though hard wood is sturdy, the ply wood used across the finish wood in case of engineered hardwood flooring gives support and strength.

There are various advantages of the engineered hardwood floors. In case of solid wood floors once it is laid, it needs to be sealed and you must give it some time to dry before it is ready to be used. The engineered hardwood floors are instantly ready to be used once it is done, since these are sold after sand cleaning and sealing. Another benefit of these floors is that they can be later sanded in case scratches develop. Laminated floors do not have this advantage.

Compared to the other wood floors the engineered hard wood flooring is the best for kitchens, bathrooms and to a certain extent in basements too. The installation of engineered floors can be done in two ways. You nail them or glue them in place. There are floating engineered floors too.

Though more expensive than the laminated floors the engineered wood floors are easier to maintain as they can be cleaned to remove the various marks that form on the floor when used constantly. The unique feature of engineered floors is that they are noiseless while tiled or stone floors tend to create noise. During winter the feel of the floor under our feet is warm unlike the other floors. You can rest assured that your floor will not develop dents or get warped when it comes in contact with moisture.  

Engineered wood floors in Utah, Salt Lake City, is prompt and is done by experts.  There are very many specialists in engineered hardwood flooring. With their help you can also customize the floor according to your choice.

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The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring

On first inspection there isn’t any great aesthetic difference between solid wood and engineered wood flooring. However before you rush out and opt for the cheapest wood floor there are a few pros and cons to weigh up for both engineered and solid wood floors.

Construction

Solid wood flooring is milled from the tree to give a solid wood plank which has an uninterrupted wood grain and is solely constructed of one solid section of wood. They are mostly constructed with a tongue and groove format.

Engineered wood floors consist of a top layer of natural hardwood which is stuck to a cross layered section of natural soft or hard wood known as ply wood. The cross layering of the ply enables the plank to be more stable due to the glue used so that when the wood expands width ways the different angles reduce the amount of expansion.

Durability

Solid wood flooring is more durable than engineered as it gains its strength from being one solid piece of wood and can be re-sanded and refinished with different waxes, stains or oils more times then engineered. Though the life of any floor does depend on how well it is looked after with recommended care products.

Engineered wood flooring is still very durable and can only be re-sanded five times as the top hardwood layer cannot withstand more.

Really good maintenance is key to durability as when the right cleaning products are used a wood floor can last a very long time.

Stability

Solid wood floor isn’t considered as stable as engineered due to its seasonal movements, meaning that they are susceptible to expansion and contraction with humidity changes in the home. A small perimeter gap accommodates this movement. Solid wood floor is not generally recommended if underfloor heating is already installed as the heat can cup and warp the boards. It is also not advisable to lay solid wood flooring on concrete, unless a full moisture test has been carried out and it is sealed, as the levels of moisture can also affect the boards.

Engineered wood flooring is more stable and more multi functional then solid wood as it is suitable for laying on underfloor heating, concrete and is compatible with most types of underlay making it a good option for those living in second floor and basement flats.

Installation

Solid wood floor can be stuck down or secret nailed and it is not recommended that they are floated over underlay as the joints are glued down and wouldn’t allow the boards to move with seasonal humidity and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring can be stuck down, nailed and floated. It is versatile but does still require a perimeter gap just to be on the safe side with slight board movements.

 

Let Lowes help you install your hard wood floors.
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Wood Floor Cleaning Product Tips

How many times have you entered a store searching for the perfect wood floor cleaning product and once you arrived at the proper aisle, you were floored to see the vast selection of products on the market for cleaning your wood floors? Which should you pick, the cheap one, the expensive one? Who knows?

The Evolving Wood Floor

Wood flooring was made popular a long, long time ago. Around the turn of the century wood flooring was just about the only type of flooring found in homes. There is nothing better than to purchase an older home, rip up the carpeting, and only hope that beautiful natural wood floors are beneath it. So many consumers are searching for that perfect wood flooring, whether it is a natural wood, or laminate wood flooring.

What to Avoid When Cleaning a Wood Floore

The secret to a beautiful, wood floor is never, ever use water on the floor. If water is spilled it should be wiped up immediately to prevent damage to your wood floor. There are hundreds of wood floor cleaning products. Your job is to read the label. Find out what’s in that product. Most wood floors have a finish on them, usually a urethane coating. Never use a wax or waxed based product on your wood floor. You can use a cleaner/polisher to enhance the finish of your wood flooring. Using a polishing mop with a soft material such as terry cloth is recommended to ensure a polished look to your wood floors.

Taking Preventative Measures

Of course the first step in floor care is preventative maintenance. To maintain your wood floor’s natural beauty and finish you should use carpet rugs in high traffic areas and around sinks. These rugs will need to be vacuumed often, so that dirt does not collect beneath them onto your wood floors. High heals should not be worn on wood floors as they could potentially dent them. Keeping your pets nails trimmed will also result in less scratching. Along with this, never slide furniture across your wood floors when moving your furniture around. Place a carpet rug underneath the legs of the furniture before moving. It is also recommended to place protector pads underneath legs of all furniture.

The best preventative maintenance is to keep your floors clean of debris. Whether you sweep, dust or vacuum your wood floors, keeping them dirt free is the key. Using a soft duster is one of the best options for keeping a wood floor clean. Dust mops are perfect for pet hair, lint and dust and should be used daily on your wood floors, along with a gentle cleaning product that will clean your floor as you dust. A clean floor leads to a happy home owner. Keep the overall beauty of your wood floors by taking the time to find out exactly what it is you are putting on those beautiful wood floors.

Author Vincent Platania represents the Fuller Brush Company.

Fuller Brush has been in business since 1906, and offers safe, environmentally friendly products for keeping your home and your body clean.

Visit http://www.fuller-brush-products.com

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Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.

The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.

A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone

Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.

When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.

If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.

Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.

Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

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The Advantages Of Wood Flooring

The beauty of your home will come when you use wood floors for your flooring. No surprise why more and more people are using wood flooring. Fact is, the difference is continually there between wood-made flooring and the conventional flooring types. Undoubtedly, there is a reason why folks now desire floors made out from wood. The main reasons are excellent technology and affordability.

The expertise behind wooden made floors has progressed over the years that individuals can now afford it without having to disburse large sums of cash as it happens in other type of flooring. Departed are the years when installing wood floor requires an enormous cost. The materials were also immensely costly in comparison to the tile or carpet varieties. Till now, installing solid hardwood floors is quite expensive. However, the good news is that now people have various options to install wood based floors that are well engineered and affordable.

Before you go ahead with your plans to install a wood based floor, you have to know about its different types, which are solid woods, engineered and laminate woods. When you learn about the difference of these types of floorings then it will be clear to you that how much cost you need to use to complete the process.

The Strong Wooden Flooring Types-This is definitely probably the most pricey and luxurious variety. To start with, you want to purchase the solid wood of desired amount with appropriate thickness (primarily 3/8 or 3/4inch). Then you have to hire a flooring professional who can effectively covert these sold form of woods into proper floors. It is definitely quite expensive, but the durability factor is high as well. Floors made out of solid wood last for several years with minimum maintenance work. There is no doubt that it looks classy and stylish as well.

Engineered or Laminate Flooring- If the strong wood is natural and unrefined that needs to be converted into plank or strips, the engineered or laminate varieties are man-made. These can be found in the form of plank and strip, created from wood-cutting lamination. Now the technology has improved tremendously and you can get the hardiness and durability of solid woods with the laminate or engineered units. The price is much lower and you can get diverse styles that can make your floor look amazing. If you look at a solid wood floor and a laminated wood floor, it is quite difficult to ascertain the difference. That is the reason why, the popularity of the engineered or laminated wood flooring have increased considerably in the recent years.

You can get these types of flooring in diverse forms and colors. You can easily customize the look of your floors exactly the way you want.

Beginner’s Guide to Wood Flooring

Wood flooring is the most popular flooring option. You can select from the several stunning wood flooring options to beautify your home interior. If you are uninformed about the many benefits of wood flooring, this article will provide you with a crucial insight on wood flooring.

 

Nowadays, different types of materials are used to produce flooring. The material selection depends upon important factors like cost, comfort, moisture, noise, durability, and maintenance. Carpeted floors or marble, granite and limestone flooring have been used since ancient times. Vinyl flooring and laminates have also gained popularity in last few decades. The most significant change is visible in wood flooring. More and more people are now experimenting with different wood flooring options.

 

Wood Flooring Benefits

Wood flooring offers several benefits. It is among the most durable flooring options. Unlike carpets, you don’t need to replace a wood floor after a few years. Even the maintenance of wood floors is easier by comparison. Wood floors are a better flooring option than regular tile flooring since wood flooring provides warmth. For people who are allergic to dust, wood floors are far better than carpeting. Even after regular vacuum cleaning, carpets can become host to allergy aggravating bacteria, parasites or dust mites. But with wood floors, you can have peace of mind. In order to keep wood floors shining like new, you just need a little polish. To restore the original glory of your wood flooring after years of use, a simple sand and seal is enough.

 

Wood Flooring Options

You have a variety of wood flooring options. You can select from classic wood floors, exotic hardwood floors, hand-scraped wood floors, and wire brush hardwood floors. Experienced wood flooring contractors also offer numerous shades and wood selections. Some popular wood options nowadays are ash, beech, birch, cherry, elm, hickory, maple, oak, mahogany, pine, walnut, and more.

 

Wood Flooring – Look and Feel

Wood flooring complements your homes ambiance with a sophisticated look. In terms of beauty, nothing can beat wood floors. The elegant look of a hardwood floor can add warmth and character to any room. In fact, the natural characteristics of wood add depth and a visual appearance that many other types of flooring can’t duplicate.

 

In addition to the several benefits and exclusive look and feel; wood floors also add value to homes. A home with elegant hardwood flooring always fetches a higher resale price in comparison to similar homes with traditional flooring. That means choosing wood flooring is always a win-win situation.

 

 

 

 

 

FAQ’s For Solid and Engineered Wood Flooring

What is Solid Wood Flooring?

Solid wood is exactly as it sounds, one piece of wood from top to bottom.

What is the difference between Laminate and Real Wood Floors?

Real Wood floors will age and mature with your property, this means that they will mark and dent more easily than a laminate would but this is part of the character of real wood floors and should not be viewed as a fault of the product. The shade of the wood surface will change with exposure to sunlight. Dependant on the species, it will either lighten or darken with age. The shade variation will only go on to a certain level and then cease. Any unexposed surface areas will eventually catch up with the colour differences once exposed.

Depending on the type of Real Wood floor (solid v’s engineered) it can sanded and re lacquered a number of times to prolong the life of the floor.

What is the difference between Solid Wood Flooring and Engineered Wood Flooring?

Each type of flooring has its specific use and choosing one over the other is dictated by your lifestyle and needs. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled environment. Solid wood (strip or plank effect) should be nailed down only and requires a wood sub floor. Solid wood can be glued to a variety of sub floor materials.

Engineered wood flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a real wood veneer (top layer of a selected species). Engineered wood flooring can be used on grade, above and below grade.

Engineered wood flooring is more dimensionally stable so it can be installed in areas where solid wood is not compatible due to moisture. Engineered wood (strip or plank effect) can be glued down over various sub floor. Some engineered woods (strip and plank ) can be nailed down which require a wood sub floor. Engineered woods can also be layed as a floating floor where the tongue and groove are glued together, but the floor is not anchored to the sub floor.

What is a “Floating Floor”?

Floating flooring is a flooring system laid down over a layer of underlay. So while the individual planks are glued together, the individual planks are not nailed or glued into the permanent floor. Instead, the planks form a system that “floats” over the layer of underlay. The underlay can be laid down over existing floors.

What is the required distance between the walls and the flooring boards?

When gluing a Real Wood to the subfloor an expansion gap of 15mm towards the walls is sufficient. With floating-floor installations for every metre of installation width the flooring requires a distance to the wall of at least 5mm, lengthwise an expansion gap of 15mm is sufficient.

Can I install the flooring using one pack after the other?

No, for a natural, harmonious looking installation is recommended to work with approximately 5 open packs of flooring and sort/choose the boards individually by colour.

How much wastage do I allow for?

Despite our strict sorting criteria and thorough quality control there may be certain material-specific peculiarities that customers come across during the on-site selection and installation process which may need to be cut out. Generally, we recommend adding 5% to the room’s sqm-total for cutting scrap.

Which kind of Real Wood flooring is right for me?

The range of choices is huge. According to personal taste and character of the room you can choose between different wood types, board sizes, surface finishes (lacquer-finish or oil-impregnation), surface structures (Antique, Distressed, Brushed), impressions (Block or Wideplank) and styles.

Does sunlight have any effects on the flooring?

Yes, any kind of wood will change its colour over time. During this process light-coloured wood types are not necessarily going to get lighter, dark wood types however will get darker. Every wood type has a characteristic aging process of its own and will react in its individual way.

What is the maximum load a Real Wood flooring can bear on a single point?

With very large loads (e.g. pianos, aquariums, storage heaters and the like) we always recommend gluing down as the installation method of choice.

Can Engineered Real Wood flooring that has been installed as a floating floor be sanded and resurfaced?

Yes, but be aware that every sanding process will take off about 1mm of the flooring’s wear-layer. Try not to use very heavy sanding machinery as the big weight of these machines may lead to the creation of “sanding waves”

How do I care for my oil-impregnated Real Wood floors?

Use Wood-Floor Soap for regular maintenance cleaning. Use a vacuum cleaner for lacquer-finished floors and damp-wipe only if needed.

Should your Floating Real Wood Flooring be installed under kitchen appliances?

In the kitchen, you should install the flooring under kitchen appliances, but be very careful when you slide the appliances over the floor. We recommend covering the flooring with something such as a spare rug to protect the flooring when you’re moving the appliances.

Are there methods that make it possible for ALL stains to be removed from Real Wood Floors or is it sometimes impossible for some stains to be removed?

Most stains don’t penetrate more than the sanding will remove. However, if you have a severe water stain, you may not be able to remove it.

How much of an irregularity (drop or rise) can there be in an existing sub floor before installing your Real Wood Flooring?

You can have a drop or rise up to 4mm over 2 linear metres.

Do Real Wood Floors increase home value?

Absolutely. Real Woods floors are recognised as one of the highest quality floors available and would increase the value of your home.

I am installing a Radiant Heat Floor System involving poly water tubing set in gypsum concrete that would be my sub-floor. Can your products be used with this type of floor heating system?

This installation is okay as long as the tubes don’t touch the wood. You also would have to use a laminated underlay vapour barrier between the concrete and the floor.

Can your Real Wood Flooring be installed over Linoleum and be used on stairs?

Real Wood flooring can be installed on the stairs, however it can be slippery.

You can install our floating Real Wood flooring over linoleum if the linoleum remains sound and tightly glued to the original sub floor.

Is there a type of Real Wood Flooring (e.g. Maple v’s Oak) that is more durable or longer lasting than another?

There isn’t much difference between Real Wood flooring wood types. The only negative on oak is it’s a rather porous wood, but it is a very hard durable wood, as are maple and beech. White oak is slightly harder than red oak. Your choice will really come down to aesthetics.

My concrete floor has a few low spots in it and I was wondering what to use to solve this problem?

Most building materials suppliers have a concrete levelling product. We suggest levelling any areas that are more than 3/16″ in variation. Make sure you use the underlay with a DPM before installing over concrete.

Do you have to install your Real Wood Flooring under existing cabinets?

Ideally, the Real Wood flooring would go under the cabinets. You can, however, cut around the cabinets if removing the cabinets would cause undue complications. Keep in mind, though, that if you were ever to change the cabinets, you could have a problem if the new cabinets weren’t the same size as the old cabinets.

Is it possible to install a Real Wood as a floating floor over concrete?

Real Wood floor is designed exactly for this kind of application. It requires an underlay with a DPM over the concrete floor. The floating floor system can go directly over that.

If there were a crack in the concrete, would it cause problems with a Floating Floor installation?

We recommend that any cracks in concrete be filled with concrete filler and sealed prior to installation. If it’s just a hairline crack you can simply cover the crack with duct tape. Keep in mind that underlay with a DPM must be installed prior to laying down the floor.

Important note prior to installation:
Relative Humidity should be maintained a 40-55% prior to installation and throughout the life span of the floor.

15mm expansion gap must be maintained around the perimeter of the floor.